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It's Easy to develop a taste for good wine as a summer associate. Wine tastings have joined whitewater rafting trips, Broadway shows, and cooking classes as a standard feature of the summer associate social calendar. A seemingly bottomless reservoir of expense-account Bordeaux flows freely at dinner with partners. And during those first cash-flush weeks of May and June, who isn't tempted to indulge in a grand cru?

The problem, of course, is that come September, you've still got at least another year of law school standing between you and your budding basement cellar. Worry not: While the world's most storied wines may be temporarily out of reach, great wine bargains can still be yours-if you know what to look for.

The French Elite

If you've been wined and dined as a summer associate, you've probably been lucky enough to sample Burgundy and Bordeaux, two of the most prestigious (and expensive!) groups of wine in the world. Even if these don't fit into your budget, you can take cues from these wines to figure out what varietals and styles of wine you prefer, and then seek out these features in less extravagant wines.

Here's what you should know. French law designates which wine varietals and production methods must be used in certain regions of France. For instance, red Bordeaux is generally made from a base of either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, and Burgundy is always made from the Pinot Noir grape. The same goes for whites: White Bordeaux is generally a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, and white Burgundy is always made from Chardonnay. Thus, these wines are named not by their varietal (as are U.S. wines) but by where they are produced. The more specific the name, the more distinguished the wine-and the more expensive. The most prestigious wines are also ranked and classified.

So how can you employ the French system to help you find affordable wines? First, if you're looking for a bargain, seek out the unclassified, non-ranked class of Bordeaux known as "petits chateaux." You'll recognize these by their price: $6-$12. These wines are approachable and easy to drink when they're young, and they go great with lamb and steak or with hard cheeses like Comtˇ or cheddar. If you'd like something with a little more depth of character, seek out one of the nearly 300 Bordeaux wines grouped under the category of cru bourgeois, which run about $15-$30. A wine book or guide can give you a list of the different chateaux that make up this category.

When it comes to Burgundy, vintage-the year the grapes are harvested-is an important indicator of quality, perhaps even more so than the the producer, because the Pinot Noir grape is particularly vulnerable to weather fluctuations. Good vintages for red Burgundy are 1990, 1995-97, and 1999. For white Burgundy, 1989, 1992, 1995-97, and 1999 are all good. An excellent rule of thumb is that it may be worth taking a risk on a no-name bargain Burgundy from a good year, but not from a year known for poor quality.

You may also want to consider good, reliable French wines from other regions beside Burgundy and Bordeaux. At $8-$12 a bottle, Côtes du Rhône, from the Rh™ne Valley in southeastern France, are full-bodied, robust reds made from Grenache and Syrah grapes that also stand up well to food. Among whites, Chardonnay from the Macon region (most called Macon or Macon-Villages) is medium-bodied, crisp, and lively; at $10-$15 a bottle, it's a great alternative to white Burgundy. Fans of white Bordeaux might enjoy Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumˇ, two wines made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown in the Loire Valley. Light, dry Sancerre is fantastic with shellfish or trout, while the fuller body and flintier quality of Pouilly-Fumˇ is a natural with chicken, veal, or goat cheese. Good examples of both wines can be found in the $15-$20 range.

Far-Flung Flavors

The French system is also useful in identifying the distinctive characteristics of certain grape varietals now grown in other parts of the world. Although terroir-the distinct climate and growing conditions in a particular place-account for some of a wine's flavor, the most celebrated grapes have certain trademark attributes that shine through wherever they're grown. Red Burgundy fans will probably also enjoy Pinot Noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley, where a cool climate and a technological approach to wine production result in great Pinot Noir that's both more affordable than its French counterpart and much more consistent from year to year. Another great alternative is Pinotage, South Africa's trademark red, devised in the 1920s from a crossing of Pinot Noir with the French grape Cinsault. Pinotage combines the earthiness of a Pinot Noir with the cherry fruit undertones of a C™tes du Rh™ne. There's nothing better with rich, oily fish such as salmon.

For those who prefer Bordeaux, there are a number of outstanding Cabernet Sauvignons and Bordeaux-style blends coming up each year from Chile, many for under $10. In the Mendoza region of Argentina, the Malbec grape-which never made it big in its ancestral home of Bordeaux-is now producing award-winning reds. Not surprisingly, given Argentina's strength in ranching, Malbec goes brilliantly with beef.

Another French grape, Syrah, a key component of C™tes du Rh™ne in France, is called Shiraz in Australia, where it's bottled on its own or blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to form deeply colored, medium-bodied reds with a smoky, spicy quality. The ubiquitous Yellow Tail, a staple of many law school student parties, is a major producer of Australian Shiraz, although there are a number of smaller local labels that produce subtler, less fruity, or less spicy variations. The best way to figure out which ones you prefer is to taste, taste, taste different varieties, which should be easy to do in this price range.

The classic white varietals have also stood up well to travel. New Zealand has become a top producer of critically acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc known for a distinctive grassy or mineral quality. Chardonnay, the staple of white Burgundy, is ubiquitous in California, but beware of bargain-priced bottles (under $10) that have an aggressive sweetness and oaky flavor. Alternative sources for good, inexpensive Chardonnay are Australia and Washington State. Finally, Riesling-that fruity, steely white from France's Alsace region as well as Germany-has thrived on the U.S. coasts, in Washington State and on Long Island. These wines can vary considerably from very dry to very sweet, depending on the producer's style. Alsace Rieslings are normally dry, German Rieslings can go either way, and most American Rieslings are sweet. You can also look for the word "trocken" on German Riesling labels and "dry" on American labels to ensure that a particular Riesling won't be sweet.

Some great wine bargains come from lesser-known grapes. Ten dollars will buy you a bottle of young red Spanish Rioja, a fresh, fruity red with a characteristic vanilla flavor that pairs well with salty, spicy tapas. Spain is also the home of Cava, a wonderful, inexpensive alternative to Champagne. Seven bucks can generally get you a very satisfying bottle. Spain's neighbor to the west, Portugal, is the home to another classic refresher, white Vinho Verde. This highly acidic, slightly effervescent wine, made from Portugal's native Alvarinho grape, is the perfect foil for grilled fish and seafood, and there's nothing better on a hot summer night.

Our tour of obscure European grapes ends in Italy with Barbera, the second most widely planted red grape variety in all of Italy. Barbera makes rich, red wines with high acidity and a distinctive black-cherry fruitiness that stands up well to pizza, pasta, and other starch-and-sauce-driven foods. This is particularly important to remember once the gourmet glut of your summer associate program is over and you're back to dining out of a Domino's Pizza box. As you drink your new favorite wines from a plastic cup, remember this: Law school lasts just three years, but an appreciation for good wine-and for a bargain!-is forever.